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Adjoining Taipa and Coalone, meanwhile, possess a vibe similar to Repulse Bay in neighboring Hong Kong. Big city sophistication and amenities are tucked into hills and valleys, allowing rural charm to shine through. Across the water from Macau’s downtown and monolithic collection of now scaffold-free casinos lies the domain of more sophisticated escapes in Taipa. An old establishment once called The Crown Hotel has been transformed into the Altira Macau, a venue that epitomizes everything that’s right about 21st century architecture and design. Rather than borrow ideas (even successfully) from the past as recently-opened Sofitel Ponte 16 and MGM Grand have done, Altira is the sensory equivalent of 150 year-old cognac served in a contemporary Baccarat glass. The flower-shaped building is a cohesive whole and yet allows the hotel guests to retreat to privacy if they choose, while another petal welcomes a loyal fan-base of expat residents to enjoy the visual feats offered by Kira (Japanese), Aurora and 38. Happy hour at Aurora is a social event, particularly on Fridays, where expat regulars partake in wine tastings similar to those at good brasseries in Rome and Milan. The terrace is as close to heaven as one can get in the area and yet still have the city’s glitzy heart in full view. Every public space is a room with its own identity and personality—not just a part of the hotel’s “Theme” like Ceasar’s Palace or the Luxor back in Vegas.

Teresa’s favorite spots to shop and treasure hunt are Splendid Sesame (a neat, miniature Indian Bazaar tucked inside the Grand Lisboa) and The Macau Culture Club (a favorite of mine from my 2007 trip, as well). Beyond those stores, and several popular Hong Kong boutiques (including Joy & Peace and Moiselle), the Macau of 2007 was a treasure trove of museums, culture and unusual food. Today, thanks to the multitude of shopping opportunities offered by the casinos—especially the city-within-a-city that is the Venetian/Four Seasons complex—one can gamble as much on the latest fashions from every corner of the globe as she can on bets in the city’s elegantly subdued casinos. Teresa also mentioned there were great fashion finds in the most unexpected places, and if we looked hard enough, we could find the next Shanghai Tang. Sure enough, a random street led us to the atelier of Lines Lab (www.lineslab.com and www.lineslab.blogspot.com), which mixes of traditional and untraditional local fabrics and textiles into stunning modern silhouettes.