Even with the rush of being in a city awash with color and music, Rio does have a wonderfully chill, bohemian side in its Santa Teresa quarter. At the heart of this artist district is Hotel Santa Teresa, a delightful historic retreat loaded with fresh modern amenities and dashes of French and Middle Eastern flair as well as a fantastic organic restaurant and spa. As you coil down the winding streets, you will find a half dozen charming artist ateliers, mellow local eateries, eye-popping street art and unique bed-and-breakfast properties (reservations at www.camaecafe.com). Once we wound our way to the bottom, Giônia took us to one of Rio’s best-kept secrets—the stunning Santa Teresa stairway, made from tiles sent to the artist from around the world. She also advised us to spend two days of our next trip to Rio chilling in Santa Teresa and the rest of the week in the center of the action in a place like the Copacabana Palace or the new Faisano (home to one of South America’s restaurants-of-the-moment and the oh-so-fab London Bar).

All parties ultimately come to an end. After a pilgrimage to Palácio das Havaianas (another gem from Giônia’s black book of shopping, at Rua Figueiredo de Magalhães 414, Copacabana - tel (21) 25481644), we toasted the end of a perfect and perfectly chic week sipping all flavors of caipirhinas at the Academia de Cachaça and a whirl on a Ferris Wheel overlooking the city.

…the morning after, with an hour before our cab arrived to the airport, I slipped back to Fashion Mall to try on a bikini just to say I had done what people do when in Rio. I ended up with a slimming one-piece from Blue Man. There is that perfect gem just waiting to be had if you look hard enough.

For more information, visit www.rioconventionbureau.com.br and www.tam.com.br.