The ambience of this smallish eatery stays true to its name: It’s homey. One wall illustrates Matney’s family tree and another, above the kitchen, lists his three loves—family, fly fishing and, of course, food. (Nearby, a shadow box even displays shiny fishing reels to demonstrate his love of the sport.) Plus, the chairs and booths are cushy, and the wooden tables look well-worn, almost as if they’d been dwelling in Matney’s own dining room for years. However, there are touches that remind you that you’re in for a fine-dining experience—for instance, white tablecloths and stunning chandeliers that were reclaimed from wine barrels.

While the décor and thoughtful details (in lieu of a black sleeve, the bill arrives in an antique fly catcher) are decidedly cozy, the real comfort lies in Matney’s food. The menu, which includes favorites from his former restaurants, lists comfort-food staples that have been kicked up a notch like bacon-infused meatloaf, baked chicken, proscuitto macaroni and cheese, Mediterranean chicken soup and seafood potpie, plus a few unique eats.

To start, the charred calamari (a menu special) is a delightful departure from the usual breaded variety. The chewy critters have a bit of a kick, as did the accompanying heirloom tomato coulis. The lobster bisque is also unlike most we’ve previously tried. The bisque lacked the thick, silky-smooth texture that we’ve come to expect from the ubiquitous dish; however, it made up for its creaminess deficiency with large chunks of lobster awaiting us at the bottom of the bowl. The steak salad, which is artfully arranged in a plump tomato and topped with feta cheese, is refreshing and not the least bit heavy, as some steak-centric salads tend to be.