Sun, surf and sustainability—if anything drives San Diego’s culinary scene nowadays, it’s these three concepts. And if any restaurant embodies such principles from the first sip to the last forkful, it’s Cucina Urbana (619.239.2222, www.sdurbankitchen.com), the earthily hip eatery that opened last June.

Even if Cucina Urbana served nothing but its rosemary-potato focaccia bread with sundried-tomato pesto (it doesn’t), and even if it weren’t an inspiring success story (it is), you should visit to see the light fixtures. Chandeliers draped in ribbon, surrounded by old-fashioned filaments or shaded by tiny explosions of lavender fabric—these illuminating features surprise and delight just like the rest of the space. Everything has been tricked out in reclaimed and recycled materials that, like the pasta and produce, were sourced within San Diego city limits.

Formerly a fine-dining venue, Cucina Urbana is now gleefully rustic. Nothing costs more than $20, bottles of wine are sold at retail prices with a modest corkage fee and the community table—which cannot be reserved and therefore inspires hope of avoiding a wait—encourages an egalitarian spirit.

But there’s more to this hot spot than its gimmicks. Take the stuffed fried squash blossoms, for instance. These little beauties are filled with a mild herb ricotta, whose richness is nicely balanced by crisp stalks that taste like SoCal sunshine. And the strawberry fregolatta deserves its moment in the spotlight, too. (Roasted strawberry filling that sings of summer and is enclosed by a savory tart—need we say more?) In between appetizer and dessert is any number of entrees—veal scallopini done with lentils, pesto ravioli, braised black cod with a pistachio-caper crust—that won’t lead you astray.