After closing his stellar Michael’s at the Citadel and the stalling of his Trattoria M project at Centerpoint Condominiums in Tempe, chef Michael DeMaria is back on the scene with Market Street on DC Ranch’s new Heirloom restaurant in Scottsdale. And, my goodness, are we happy to have him. Taking over the space formerly occupied by Flo’s, Heirloom is simple and sophisticated with beautiful brick-color walls, a glass-enclosed wine cellar and chef’s table (where diners can watch the man at work) and wall-length booths. The restaurant was such a labor of love, in fact, that chef DeMaria himself decked the walls with beautiful tile and his father did the electrical work.
The menu at Heirloom is constructed unlike most menus. It’s divided into five courses, and there are no traditional appetizer, entree, etc. sections. Instead, diners are expected to order one selection from two or three of the “courses”–or one from each if you’re, you know, me. And please be prepared once the server takes your order–you order all your courses at once because some of the later courses take longer to cook.
While making my menu selections, I nibbled on Heirloom’s complimentary bread sticks, dunked in a delicious and slightly spicy hummus. Certainly not the same old bread and butter that many restaurants dish out. I started with the heirloom tomato salad with white balsamic-tossed baby spinach. The salad was simply superb, and tomatoes were incredibly fresh and juicy. The second course made way for possibly my favorite menu item of the evening: the short rib canneloni. The melt-in-your-mouth meat was sensational, wrapped in the superthin canneloni pasta. So good. I also loved the bite I had of the demi-poached lobster tail from this round.
Next up was the shrimp-wrapped diver scallop. The sizable scallop was yummy, though the shrimp didn’t as much wrap the scallop as it did sit on top of it. Still, it was delicious, though not our favorite menu item. During the fourth course, I tried the thyme-scented veal cutlet, topped with lump crab, the mint-scented lamb chops, and the divine chicken and mushroom dish (I think my husband nearly choked, he was trying to eat this deliciousness so fast). I’d order both dishes again. We ended the evening with the lip-smacking house-made doughnuts, sided with cinnamon ice cream. Few things are more incredible that dunking a crispy, sugar-topped ball of dough into ice cream. And Heirloom is the place I plan to do that from now on. 480.515.2575, www.michaelscateringusa.com.