NY Fashion Week Reviews – Rodarte’ and Ralph Rucci

Every year there are a few shows that I can’t wait to see. The anticipation of seeing what these creative minds have achieved with just a well threaded piece of fabric, a few zippers, buttons and the like. One of those shows is Rodarte’.

The Mulleavy sisters never fail to excite and surprise. The surprise this year was a more commercially acceptable collection on the runway. Let’s face it, the sisters have certainly made their mark with creativity and crafty construction skills that go far beyond what most designers can conceive, but there comes a time when a tad bit of shall we say restraint for sales sake has to come in to play.
Perhaps some die hard Rodarte’ fans will feel disappointed by this little fact, but I must say that I thought the collection was amazing. Inspired by Vincent Van Gogh (Starry Nights in particular) the palette of watercolor blues, golds, greens all evoking sunflowers, stars and swirls were truly mesmerizing. As usual the construction is impeccably done and fabrics and shapes ran the gamut from draped, short, structured, cocktail, metallic, floral and painterly prints as well as embroidery.

James Kaliardos created a gorgeous dark makeup look to compliment the collection. With deep smokey eyes and barely there neutral lips and cheeks. Hair was soft and simply coiffed in a youthful look by Odile Gilbert.



Photos: Vogue.it

Photo: style.com

And just when I thought that nothing would compare to the deliciousness of Rodarte’ enter Ralph Rucci one of my eternal favorites. The mere sight of anything Rucci sends me into a happy alternate state of being (okay maybe that is overstating but you get the idea) that is hard to rival.

My RR obsession has been going on for just over eight or nine years now ever since I had the pleasure of interviewing him for AFM and every year it gets bigger. This year is no exception Mr Rucci turned out one of the most elegant and sophisticated collections I have seen in a while. These are the kinds of clothes that people wear when they really understand that style transcends fashion and quality had no substitute.

The couture quality was still there but this time there was a more modern take on RR staples- the perfect dress, the well cut suit, a cocktail frock, and curve hugging gown. As expected the collection once again consisted of neturals, black, white silver and little pops of color.




Photos: wwd.com

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