NYFW Reviews – Libertine, Jason Wu, Carolina Hererra

I have been known to say on many an occasion that I rarely meet a color that I don’t like. Through out the years my houses have gone from black, white and magenta living room to shades of acid green, purple and blue in the kitchen and bath to a charcoal and red office. Maybe it’s the makeup artist in me, but I say bring on the color wheel. I think that Johnson Hartig and I must have something in common. When I read this review from WWD.com I couldn’t wait to see the colorful collection that Libertine showed for Fall.

“Designer Johnson Hartig wasn’t kidding when he said he hadn’t met a color he didn’t like. He sent out an explosion of hues, all electric, kicky and psychedelic. In his first solo show since splitting up with partner Cindy Greene, Hartig kept the label’s core reworked-vintage theme but made things fresh by silk-screening those colored brights in gridlike patterns on garments. The prints, added on in a haphazard fashion, made everything pop — from the beefy lumberjack plaid coats and Sixties shift (with its own groovy print peeking from beneath) to allover sequin jackets, crinkle chiffon dresses and Fifties-style frocks. On the (relatively) tamer side were graphic black-and-white versions, including some fun men’s wear jackets, suits, coats and slim trousers.”

Jason Wu played upon the theme of construction and deconstruction. The backdrop included white veiled curtains, chandeliers and panels of smoked mirrors. The clothes were a luxurious mix of classic sportswear in charcoal, black and white featured details of interspersed lace along with ladylike party frocks in both long and short lengths. And the color palette of black, white, cream and pops of cerulean, vermillion and cobalt made it even that much more luxe. Lace blouses paired with flirty silk skirts and dresses of plume and paillettes were a standout This collection may have caused a few daydreaming moments of a romantic date in Paris.

At Carolina Hererra the tone was that of posh simplicity. The refined pieces reminded me of an early 1960’s uptown girl adorned in gorgeous tweed and boucle’ suits and skirts topped with fur accents in sable and fox. Everything from the fabric choices to the hemlines equaled pure and powerful elegance. The collection was mostly neutral with a few additions of blues and merlot and amethyst shades. And of course as expected the evening wear was a standout. Very few do evening like Carolina, in fact it’s nearly impossible to go wrong in one of her cocktail pieces or evening gowns.

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