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In fact, the interior might best be described as clubby goes classy. The setup has the sophisticated, modern aesthetic of lounges catering to a younger set—a contemporary motif in chocolate brown and powder blue rounded out with curvy seating, sleek glass and mirrors—all anchored by grown-up, warm and weighty accents. In the rounded building with circular booths, dark wood tables and hardwood floors meet curved-back cream-and-blue leather chairs. Wiry white bar-height chairs contrast with a softly glowing fireplace in one corner. Champagne buckets are never far from reach. And the heavy glass and mirror doors and walls are alluring, if charmingly confusing. Unexpected angular accents like square plates with bent-up corners, untraditionally shaped glasses and table settings (and did we mention the square toilets in the ladies’ room?) provide additional visual interest.

This cozy but chic establishment is the place for a celebratory dinner (and it only serves dinner, by the way). If you time it right, you can catch the setting sun through vast windows as a prelude to your meal. For this reason alone, you might want to go at sunset for tapas and sophisticated sips like the Lingonberry Fizz (Finlandia vodka shaken with lingonberry jam), Polish Winter Breeze (which uses Zubrowka Bison Grass Vodka) or Port Cobbler (muddled pineapple, lemon and orange segments shaken with Dow ruby port). The drinks, like the rest of Luc’s, seem remarkably well thought out.